Dec
03
2011

The Only Way to Put Time in Reverse

THE list of truly classic watches the timeless icons of the watchmakers art is quite short, and what belongs on it is always arguable. A Patek Philippe Calatrava and a Cartier Santos will make it onto most collectors lists, alongside the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster.

And few watch lovers would deny the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, marking its 80th anniversary, a place in this pantheon.

The elegant rectangular watch, with its unique swivel case, was originally conceived as a sports watch. The revolutionary idea of a wristwatch that could be turned back-to-front was born on the polo fields of India, where hard-struck polo balls were playing havoc with fragile dials and faces.

By sliding a thumb across the dial, you could slip the watch sideways out of its socket-case and reverse it to face inward, leaving a “polo ready” protective metal case back in its place.

Alternatively, some versions are double-faced, effectively two watches in one, with an elegant but plain dial for daily wear, and a jeweled face for galas.The design of the Reverso has changed little since its first appearance in 1931, its constancy reflecting the simple practicality of a rectangular shape for the sliding pivot movement.

This watch is pure,” said Jérme Lambert, the chief executive of Jaeger-LeCoultre, a Swiss company.Using a music analogy, he said that minor variations had been introduced over the years, but that “the melody is always with a restricted number of notes.”

But if the style of the Reverso has remained traditional, the brand has been inventive in marketing to younger customers. For the anniversary, besides introducing iPhone and iPad apps, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a virtual museum on its Web site; Reverso owners can upload photos and details of their watches to create an online exhibition.

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